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The rapper is entering that vexing post-prime era that inevitably hunts down every enormously successful person. Perhaps that’s why he’s preserved himself in a mini-museum. The sound was the soundtrack to the year I turned 10 seeing a relic of it up close felt like being in the Louvre.Įminem has been famous, and will remain famous, for a long time, but it has also been eight years since his last No. If he’s coming through, I’ll find out when I’m on my way downtown.”Ī smattering of Eminem-themed pint glasses, T-shirts and sneakers filled the room, but the real pièce de résistance was at the back: the Robin costume from the music video for “Without Me,” encased in glass. “He only lets a few of us know when he’s coming,” Mr. Ian McManus, 22, who manages the Trailer - a merchandise shop above the dining area - told me the rapper has dropped by the restaurant a “handful” of times since it opened. He means that as an endorsement, and he should.Įminem is not here, nor should he be expected anytime soon. Catallo said the noodles possess an inscrutable leftover chemistry. The greasy slop of the pasta, the sugary tang of the red sauce it’s the spaghetti that emerges from your pantry on the last night before a grocery trip. Instead, it might be best described as … well, downright motherly. This is not Italian cooking, nor does it try to be. I’d ordered the spaghetti and meatballs, which was served in an oyster pail and covered with a snowy dusting of Parmesan, as well as a ‘sghetti sandwich. “Today’s spaghetti is better tomorrow,” Mr. He believes that method blesses the spaghetti with a delectable down-home texture. Catallo’s staff makes all the pasta a day ahead, then reheats the product in a pair of woks. Spaghetti is not typically deployed as a takeout food - noodles take a while to cook - but Mr.
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Catallo said the restaurant’s busiest periods occur “postgame and pregame,” where the staff harvests customers from the foot traffic pouring through Detroit’s pro sports district. (During the pandemic, Union Joints and Eminem’s Shady Records delivered the pasta to frontline medical workers.) The restaurant first appeared as a pop-up shop in 2017 and has been a fixture at the rapper’s various festival performances since. He described Mom’s Spaghetti as a “true joint venture” between his business and Eminem. I tucked into a booth, already overwhelmed, preparing for a long night in the afterlife of Eminem’s cultural empire.Ĭurt Catallo, 54, is the owner, with Ann Stevenson, of Union Joints, which operates several restaurants around Detroit, including this one. Here is where the Slim Shady aesthetic becomes apparent: Most of the “E’s” on the menu and packaging have been turned backward, and the kitchen is made to look like a street corner bodega. Almost as soon as my credit card cleared, a steaming, carb-laden paper bag was handed to me through the window.Īfterward, I was escorted inside a gastropub called Union Assembly, where all of the food served at Mom’s Spaghetti is prepared, to a tiny suite of tables and bar stools where customers can eat. (Yes, the pizza chain.) I perused the abbreviated menu and placed my order at an outdoor cashier. Instead, I found myself at a small counter-service restaurant, tucked in an alley next to the Little Caesars World Headquarters.
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On a visit to Mom’s Spaghetti in December, three months after the initial fanfare, the place did not immediately register as a shrine to a rapper’s career.
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Nearly two decades later, the restaurant appears to be Eminem’s way of embracing - or one-upping - the joke. “Knees weak, arms are heavy, there’s vomit on his sweater already, mom’s spaghetti.” It was only a matter of time before the lyric became a meme. The lyrics are imbued with nauseating, do-or-die dread: Our protagonist is locked in a bathroom, drenched with sweat, washing off a regurgitated wad of pasta clinging to his hoodie.
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Mom’s Spaghetti is named for the famed first verse of “Lose Yourself,” a single written for the movie “8 Mile” that sold more than 10 million copies and earned Eminem a pair of Grammys in 2004.